Posts Tagged ‘Types of irrigation Filters’

Pump Controls

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

When I was a child, my parents owned a one room fishing cabin on the banks of the Rogue River in the town of Shady Cove, Oregon. This was a pretty primitive place, and our source of water was a small 120 volt electric pump in the river. On the inlet side of the pump a 5′ long garden hose extended into the river, with a piece of window screen on the end to keep out most of the fish. The pump outlet was connected to a standard garden hose that ran up the bank from the pump to the cabin area. When we needed water we simply plugged in the extension cord that ran to the pump and moments later, after a few gurgles and burps, the water would start flowing from the hose. To turn the water off we simply unplugged the cord. This is an example of the most basic of pump control systems, and yet all pump controls are no more than a variation on this same procedure. The pump is started and stopped by turning on or off the power supply!

The next step up in pump control is to get rid of the plug and outlet and use a permanent switch to turn on and off the power flow. Some small pumps are stopped and started in exactly this way. But with the higher voltage and amperes commonly used for irrigation pumps a simple switch will not be practical. The switch would have to be huge to handle the load. Add to this the safety problems that develop when you add water to the equation. While 110 volts can kill you, contacting it with dry hands will likely only give you a bit of a “bite”. Grab that same voltage with wet hands and there is a good chance your heart will stop, or at the least you will wish you had stayed in bed that day! Water makes your skin a much better conductor of electricity. Remember that little childhood trick your friends pulled, involving the 9-volt battery and your tongue? If you press the battery terminals on your skin nothing much happens. But lick your skin before trying it (I don’t recommend sticking the battery terminals directly on your tongue!) and you will hear and possibly feel the spark jump! That’s what water does with 12 volts and a fraction of an amp. Believe me when I tell you that the 24 volts and 2.5 amps put out by most automatic irrigation controllers will make you say some pretty unnice things if you grab the wrong two wires with wet hands. Imagine, then, the effect if you increase the voltage to 240 volts and 15 amps! (By the way, it’s the amps that kill you, not the voltage!) For this reason most pump control circuits are designed using a relay circuit that isolates the user from the pump voltage. The relay circuit is like a messenger. You tell the relay to start the pump and the relay starts it for you. Most relays use 12 or 24 volts, a few use 120 volts. For example, the controls for spas usually use a 24 volt relay circuit because the manufacturers know you’re going to be turning them on and off with wet hands.

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

http://www.lawntechlandscaping.com

Tips for Buying a Pump

Monday, November 16th, 2009

If you call your pump dealer and give him/her the feet head (or even the PSI) and GPM you want to pump, he (she?) will figure out which pump you need. This is the best way to select a pump, as the dealers know their pump lines much better than you. They may suggest a pump you don’t even know about. But for those who want to be educated consumers, here is how to do it yourself!

I do not generally recommend that you buy an “off the shelf” pump at a hardware store for use on an irrigation system. Most of those pumps do not provide sufficient performance information for you to be able to tell if the pump is sufficient for your system. Off the shelf pumps are fine for fountains, draining a pool, running a sprinkler on the end of a hose, or other uses that don’t require precision. The wasted power used by the wrong size pump on an irrigation system can easily cost you far more than the savings you get from buying a discount pump. If you guess wrong and the pump isn’t big enough, you will become one of those poor people trying to unload a brand new pump at a huge discount on Ebay!

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

http://www.lawntechlandscaping.com

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Booster Pumps

You’re going to run into the term booster pump now and then as they are common in irrigation, so let’s start by defining it. Most pumps are used to take water from a standing (or non-pressurized) source and move it to another location. For example, a pump might take water from a lake and move it to a sprinkler system. A booster pump, on the other hand, is used to increase the water pressure of water that is already on its way somewhere. Example; say you have a sprinkler system that needs 80 PSI of pressure to operate. But the water line coming onto your property only has 50 PSI of pressure. In this cases you would install a booster pump to raise the pressure from 50 PSI up to 80 PSI for your sprinkler system. So to put it another way, a booster pump is used to “boost “the water pressure. Any of the types of pumps listed below can be used as a booster pump, but almost all booster pumps are the “end-suction centrifugal “type. More on that later.

What is a Floating Pump?

A floating pump is simply a submersible pump or a turbine pump that is attached to the bottom of a float. The pump hangs below the float, and the float is anchored in a lake, pond, or river. A flexible pipe is used to take the water from the pump to the irrigation system. A floating pump is a good option to look into for installing a pump in a pond or lake. It is often much easier to install than a standard submersible, jet-pump, or turbine and is much more energy efficient than an end-suction centrifugal. Floating fountains and pond aerators are another utilization of floating pump technology.

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

http://www.lawntechlandscaping.com