Posts Tagged ‘irrigation repair specialists’

Automating the Control Circuit

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

To automate the control of the pump you simply replace the manual switch in the circuit with an automatic switch. There are several types commonly used.

Types of Automatic Pump Switches:

•           Timer. Any electric timer can be used to turn the pump on and off at predetermined times. A relay is used to start and stop the high voltage pump using a low voltage timer, like a standard irrigation controller. With the right voltage relay, you could even hook the pump up to your computer!

•           Pressure Switch. Most well pumps are controlled by a pressure switch. The pressure switch turns on the pump when the pressure drops in the pipes, and turns it back off when the pressure gets too high. A typical installation will have a pressure tank which stores pressurized water so that the pump doesn’t cycle on and off rapidly due to pressure changes. The tank acts as a reservoir to stabilize the pressure in the system. Most pressure switches are adjustable, you can modify the on and off pressure settings within a limited pressure range, usually 20 to 45 PSI.

•           Irrigation Controller. Most irrigation controllers have a pump start circuit built into them. You simply connect the wires that go to the switch in the diagram above to the controller pump start terminals, and the irrigation controller will turn the pump on whenever it turns on a valve. Do not hook up the controller to an existing relay circuit. In other words if your pump already has a low voltage starter circuit with a relay you will need to install a new one for the irrigation controller. The controller has its own 24 volt AC power source, so if you hook it up to an existing circuit the irrigation controller may be damaged. If you don’t understand electrical circuits get an electrician to wire it for you!

•           Flow Switch. Flow switches are sometimes used on booster pumps. When the switch detects flow in the pipes it turns on the pump. So if you open a sprinkler valve, the water would begin to flow, and the pump would come on. This only works if the water is already pressurized and you want to use the pump to increase the pressure. An example would be a sprinkler system hooked up to the local water company pipes that needs more pressure than the water company provides.

•           Combination of one or more of the above switches. It is very common to combine one or more of the switches above so that the pump is turned on or off by any of several different events. A very common application is one relay controlled by both a pressure switch and a manual override switch, and a second relay operated by the irrigation controller. I often will add a flow switch to the irrigation controller relay, setting it to turn OFF the pump if there is no flow. For example, if one of the automatic valves fails to open when the controller tells it to, the irrigation controller would force the pump to continue running, even though there was no water flow! The pump would then over heat, since it uses the continuous flow of water through it to remove the heat, and the bearings would melt.

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

http://www.lawntechlandscaping.com

Typical Anti-Siphon Type Solenoid Valve

Monday, October 26th, 2009

Remove the solenoid from the valve. Most solenoids unscrew counter-clockwise to remove. When removing the solenoid watch that the spring loaded plunger inside it does not pop-out and fall into a mud puddle. On most new valves the plunger is held “captive” so it won’t fall out when the solenoid is removed, but sometimes even those ones come loose. Once the solenoid is removed, push in on the end of the spring-loaded plunger in the solenoid. It should spring gently back out when released, and it should slide in and out smoothly when pressed several times in a row. If the plunger doesn’t move easily and smoothly, replace the solenoid; it is damaged and can’t be repaired. Do not apply any oil or lubricant to the solenoid plunger, if it is sticking it is not repairable, replace it.

Remove the valve lid, most are held in place by several metal screws. Some models of valve have lids that screw off like the top of a jar, turn counter-clockwise (lefty losey) to remove this type of lid. You may need to use a strap wrench to remove the jar-top style lids. All valves have a spring under the lid; don’t let it fall out into the mud! Remove the spring and set it aside.

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

www.LawnTechLandscaping.com

Submersible Pumps

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

Submersible pumps are installed completely underwater, including the motor. The pump consists of an electric motor and pump combined in a single unit. Typically the pump will be shaped like a long cylinder so that it can fit down inside of a well casing. Although most submersible pumps are designed to be installed in a well, many can also be laid on their side on the bottom of a lake or stream. Another common installation method for lakes and rivers is to mount the submersible pump underwater to the side of a pier pile (post). Submersible pumps don’t need to be primed since they are already under water. They also tend to be more efficient because they only push the water, they don’t need to suck water into them. Most submersible pumps must be installed in a special sleeve if they are not installed in a well, and sometimes they need a sleeve even when installed in a well. The sleeve forces water coming into the pump to flow over the surface of the pump motor to keep the motor cool. Without the sleeve the pump will burn up. Because the power cord runs down to the pump through the water it is very important that it be protected from accidental damage. You wouldn’t want a boat tangled up in the cord or a snapping turtle or alligator to bite through it!

Source: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com

http://www.lawntechlandscaping.com